Pelusa

Pelusa sits on the waterfront of Amsterdam Noord, a small neighbourhood restobar built around an Argentine parilla and a marble-topped bar. Chef Steven Andeweg cooks in a robust, straightforward register, drawing on his time at London's St. John to shape a kitchen rooted in nose to tail practice and open fire grilling. The dining room, lined with Victorian green tiles and brass taps, doubles as a local meeting point.

The menu is compact and moves with the seasons, pairing vegetable dishes with lesser-used cuts of meat and offal. Pork arrives from Buitengewone Varkens, produce from Lindenhoff, bread from Bakkerij Solinger next door and coffee from Koffie van Kees. A drinks list built around wild fermented beers, natural ciders and natural wines gives the bar side of the operation equal weight.